West of Leh is a stark wasteland that unfolds most of
the way to Kashmir. Beyond Nimmu and to Kargil, the whole part is the west
of Leh. The landscape is natures wonder. The vast unending desert is
occasionally broken by small islands of green and surrounded by snow capped
mountains. There are some small rivers and streams flows through the desert
where small villages and farms clings to it. Public commutation is normal
where one can easily access the villages along the valley. Passports are
checked at Khalsi, and motorcyclists should be aware that there are no
petrol stations between Phyang and Kargil.
Basgo
Before the kingdom was united at Leh, Basgo was the capital
of lower Ladakh, situated about 40km west of Leh was once World Heritage
site for its magnificent ancient citadel complex. But now it is crumbled
though UNESCO and Baso Welfare Committee have started to restore the
heritage. Basgos main highlight is Chamba Gompa, which is renowned for
spectacular mural work using traditional colors and techniques
Basog has no accommodation and eating provision but you can stay at near by
Nimmo. Aroad is slowly being built from here to Padum in Zanskar.
Likir
Eleventh century Klu-kkhyll Gompa is famous at the village
Likir, which is located 68km from Leh. This Gompa can only be reached
through 40km trek along th river. inside the gompa there are several prayer
rooms full of statues and murals and an interesting museum with thangkas and
religious objects-including a kapala (cermonial bowl) made of human skull
and a kangling(ceremonial flute) made up of human femur. Dosmoche festival
is celebrated in the month of February.
Alchi
Clinging to the edge of narrow gorge just south of Kargil
road, the temples of Alchi represent the crowning glory of Indo Tibetan
art in Ladakh. Built in 11th century by Great Translator Ringchen Zangpo,
who bought artist from the Buddhist monasteries of Kashmir to create the
amazing murals and sculptures at Alchi. Alchio houses many temples. The
Chhoskhor temple, Sumrtsek temple, Vairocana temple, Lotsa temple and
Manujshri temple are named a few.
Rizong
North of Saspol, a narrow gorge cuts north tot he imposing
Rizong Gompa a stack of dusty monks cells crammed into an arid, rocky
amphitheater. The two prayer halls have soot darkened murals and gilded
statues of Sakyamuni and Maitreya. Set in orchards downhill from the gompa
the Chullichan Nunnery provides an education for girls and local villages.
Lamayuru
It is located at the 125km from Leh, Lamayuru is set
amongst eroded badlands at the mouth of a narrow gorge. According to legend,
this was once the bottom of a deep lake but a Buddhist saint prayed and the
water drained away. Even Geologist indicates the presence of vanished lake,
perhaps drained by the receding glaciers. The main attraction of Lamayuru is
Lamayuru Gompa, the oldest in Ladakh. Few murals but having jeweled chortens
statues of bodhisattvas (Buddhist saints) and ancient chaam masks. Yuru
Kabgyat festival is celebrated in the month of July.
Mulbekh
From Lamayuru, the road turns to Fotu La and Manika La
before descending Mulbekh a dusty string of tea houses along the
highway. Mulbek has some old monasteries before Muslim dominated Kargil.
Chamba Gompa in Mulbekh is the renowned one that has 8m high rock cut statue
of maitreya dating to AD 700. Uphill from town are the gompas of Serdung and
Gandentsa, the last Buddhist monuments.